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Painting with Encaustic Waxes
History, Techniques and Supplies

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This information is presented as a guide only. Please read & follow all product instructions.

 

History
     Encaustic is an artistic hot wax painting process in which wax-bound paints are fused together with external heat. Encaustic (meaning "to process with heat") dates back to Ancient Greece and Egypt. Proof of the durability of these techniques can be found in the Egyptian paintings known as the Fayum Portraits, painted in the second century AD as funerary decoration to cover an embalmed mumy. Encaustic work fell into obsurity in the 9th century AD, replaced by fresco, tempera and oil paints.
     Several Renaissance artists, including DaVinci, attempted encaustic painting, followed by artists such as VanGogh, who experimented with wax mixed into their oil-painting mediums. Another major artist to utilize encaustic waxes was the American pop artist Jasper Johns, who created many encaustic works. Recently, due to modern equipment, these techniques have been experiencing a revival resulting in a growing awareness of the unique possibilites of encaustic waxes.

Properties
     Encaustic waxes create durable work with a relatively hard surface, though some special attention is needed. As it will not expand or shrink, atmospheric changes in dampness are not an issue, though it will soften with heat and the work may crack when cold. Encaustic surfaces may be damaged by abrasion, but maintain a slight sheen which can be buffed with a soft cloth. The wax material will adhere to most surfaces, though a rigid support is best.
     Traditional encaustic work is created using a media of dry pigments mixed with hot wax. These same pigments are used for making other materials including pastels, oils, and tempera. When working with these dry pigments, always be sure to read the safety instructions. Due to a low oil content, encaustic work will not yellow or darken with age as do oils.

Encaustic Supplies
     Pure, refined beeswax is best for encaustic work. Available natural or bleached, the pale difference in colour has little effect on pigment colours. Beeswax has a very low melting point and is sold in small, solid blocks. With encaustic, heat is used as a solvent. Beeswax is a slightly soft solid, relaxing into a liquid when heated. Modifying the wax with turpentine, varnish or linseed oil will affect the workability and drying time, allowing oppertunites for experimentation.
     Encaustic wax sticks can be made from pigment mixed with wax, then cooled into sticks. Darker colours with more pigment will have a thicker consistancy, while lighter colours will be more liquid. This wax stick can be melted into a dish for traditional use, or used directly as a crayon, then heated with a hot-air gun. To create encaustic wax sticks, place the beeswax into a stainless steel container or measuring cup and melt over low heat. Do not use an open flame for this process. For a harder stick, melt 15 percent Dammar Resin into the beeswax. Slowly stir in pigment. The guideline for wax/pigment proportions is that there must be enough wax to coat the pigment particles. Darker, opaque colours require more pigment, while translucent colours need only a small amount. Pour the hot liquid into a heat resistant mold. These sticks are ready for use when cool.

Equipment & Cleaning
     Tools designed spefically for encaustic work may be difficult to find, however, common domestic tools like those listed below are handy and easily accessible. Be sure to keep a set of these tools only for encaustic use, to prevent damage to other work, and DO NOT use these tools in food preperation afterward.

     Hot plate
     A small cooking hot plate with a flat element is ideal as a heat source. This must have a control to maintain a low heat.

     Mixing trays and containers
     Metal containers are needed for holding melted wax and pigments over the heat source. Metal cans are handy, and metal cupcake trays with depressions make great palettes. A flat metal baking sheet can also be used directly on the hot plate to mix small amounts of colour.

     Hot-air guns
     As mentioned above, a hair dryer set to high works well as an encaustic heat gun. The hot air softens or melts the wax to blend colours.

     Brushes and knives
     Traditional bristle brushes can be used in short, quick strokes. Brushes must be natural, as synthetic or plastic brushes will melt. Brushes should be kept warm when not in use, as the wax will harden as it cools. Steel painting and palette knives are perfect for encaustic use and clean up easily.

     Cleaning Brushes
     Always use natural fiber brushes with encaustics, as synthetic brushes may melt. Before cleaning, the brushes should be kept warm and supple by resting them on a hot plate, so they will be receptive to the process of cleaning. Add some clean thin wax to the brush (a white candle is ideal for this purpose) and work the wax into the hairs. Wipe the brush hairs using a tissue. Repeat this process with clean wax until the brush is clean.

 

blueright.gif (889 bytes) Encaustic Wax Techniques feature